Month: May 2014

05/31: Beginnings of the Arab Spring

The Tunisian Revolution started in the town of Sidi Bouzid, the seat of governance for a rural province of the same name in central Tunisia. By January 21, Time magazine summarized the catalyst of the unrest with the following record of one Mohamed Bouazizi: …on Dec. 17 his livelihood was threatened when a policewoman confiscated his unlicensed vegetable cart and its goods. … Not satisfied with accepting the 10-dinar fine that Bouazizi tried to pay ($7, the equivalent of a good day’s earnings), the policewoman allegedly slapped the scrawny young man, spat in his face and insulted his dead father. Humiliated and dejected, Bouazizi, the breadwinner for his family of eight, went to the provincial headquarters, hoping to complain to local municipality officials, but they refused to see him. At 11:30 a.m. … Bouazizi returned to the elegant double-story white building with arched azure shutters, poured fuel over himself and set himself on fire.1 After initial protests and riots occurred outside the provincial headquarters in Sidi Bouzid, the protests spread throughout the country. The unrest amongst large portions of Tunisian society could easily be broken down into the marginalized and unemployed (and those supporting their cause) protesting against the corrupt leaders at all levels of governance. The situation was more complicated than that, however. The sprouting of fancy shopping centres, yacht marinas and housing developments along Tunisia’s breezy coast provided a shiny veneer of prosperity. … But the exterior sheen conceals a growing sense of anomie, compounded by swelling unemployment and material expectations fed by rising educational standards.2 While the underlying causes of the unrest are still being discussed, its immediate effects were witnessed world wide. (Sidi Bouzid below, Tunis after)

sidi bouzid tunis diagram

On January 25th protests were planned across Egypt. The location of these protests were always in the public realm, plazas and government ministry buildings. “Some 80,000 Egyptian web-surfers signed up, pledging to march on the streets to voice demands for reform.” Exploiting a subdued police presence, “demonstrators in Cairo managed by late afternoon to seize control of Tahrir Square, a broad traffic junction in the city centre.” “The minister of interior, Habib al-Adli, issued a stern warning that no further street gatherings of any kind would be tolerated.”3 Any street within Egypts major cities held the potential for protest, and the Interior Ministry was intent on regulating such activity. Protests continued for weeks, with Tahrir Square serving as ground zero for the movement, and after many casualties and much internal and external political pressure, President Hosni Mubarak resigned February 11th, 2011.

In Yemen protests were also planned for January 25th. In the Yemeni capital of Sana’a, protests against President Ali Saleh were preempted by police action. A February 14th report by Al Jezeera mentions “state forces have blocked access to public squares, several coincidentally named “Tahrir Square” – both in Sanaa, and around the country. … Several checkpoints have appeared on streets leading to Sanaa’s presidential palace, and many have been blocked with razor wire.”4 Whether confronted by armed police forces or armed supporters of President Saleh, the protesters were forced to regroup and set up camp on the campus of Sana’a University. “If you ignore the burned-out and smashed-up cars, the anti-government demonstration at Yemen’s Sana’a University looks much like a summer music festival, with its fluorescent tents and juice stalls decked with artificial flowers. … Now the demonstrators have set up camp and say they are staying put”5. The power of the presidential palace as setting for protest was understood by both the supporters and the dissenters of President Saleh. It was a matter of either luck or police machinations that the supporters of the presidential set up camp outside his palace first. Dissenters on the campus of Sana’a University found themselves miles away and on the periphery of the city fabric.

On February 14th, 2011 protesters in Bahrain took to the streets (via similar social network organization) of the capital Manama to protest the social and codified discrimination of the majority Shia populous. By February 24th, the Economist had this to say: AFTER the most explosive week in its recent history, with seven dead and hundreds injured when troops opened fire on protesters, an uneasy truce is holding in Bahrain. Protesters have reoccupied Pearl Square in the capital, Manama, after the crown prince, Salman bin Hamad al-Khalifa, ordered the troops off the streets. The site now houses a sprawling camp of several thousand, with free-food stands and a barber doing a busy trade. From a small stage, a steady queue of speakers call for the downfall of the regime.6 Pearl Square, the location of the protest camp, was located in the middle of a traffic circle, around which multiple major highways circumnavigated. The square, today, is no more, demolished by government officials in an attempt to break up the protests. “Members of the opposition expressed their disappointment at the demolition of a structure the government itself had described as one of the kingdom’s ‘most striking landmarks’”7. In one violent act, the government of Bahrain disrupted the protest camp and killed off a possible symbol of the political unrest. If the Pearl Square statue no longer represented the government, it would represent no one. (Cairo below, then Sanaa, Manama after)

cairo sanaa manama

These four events share much in common. The four countries share language, religion (albeit with different minority groups and different demographic break downs), common history (in either the Islamic Caliphate or Ottoman Empire), and political interest (all are members of the League of Arab States while none are members of OPEC). Each nation came to be defined by its current borders within the last sixty years. For Egypt and Tunisia, this meant they were colonies of England and France, respectively until their independence was gained in 1952 and 1956. All four countries operated under some sore of martial law for an extended period of time running up to the beginning of 2011. Each of the five cities mentioned had examples of neighborhoods with western style orthagonal grid organization patterns in addition to large remnants of a history pre-western city layout (either of Ottoman or Islamic origin). Each city mentioned served as a capital (for Sidi Bouzid, this meant being the location of the seat of the provincial government of the same name) for their respective countries. The capitol buildings themselves are found in the modern/western parts of the respective cities.

1Time Magazine, “Bouazizi: The Man Who Set Himself and Tunisia on Fire” by Rania Abouzeid, 1/21/ 2011

2The Economist, “Tunisia’s Troubles: No End in Sight” 1/14/2011

3The Economist, “Protest in Egypt: Another Arab Regime Under Threat” 1/27/2011, “Thousands Rally Across Yemen” 2/14/2011

5The Economist, “Protests in Yemen: Getting Together” 1/24/2011

6The Economist, The Nervous Gulf: Bullets and Bribes” 1/24/2011, “U.S. Condemns Arrest of Opposition Figures in Bahrain” 3/19/2011


05/29: Ground Zero

I visited the World Trade Center site today, which is still mostly under construction. The PATH station looks like post-war London Brutalism, a crude version of something Alison and Peter Smithson might have designed in the scarcity of the late 1940s and 1950s. The Calatrava Station, which will replace the existing temporary structure, is looking as menacing and interesting as it ever will with only the beginnings of the precious while cladding installed. The Freedom Tower is looking a bit dirty, and is just as easily appreciated from afar. I’m not sure how much has been value engineered out of that building, but the details are not memorable. Between that and the $24 entrance fee to the memorial, it begs the question how we can justify a private developer operating on hallowed ground while pitchforks were raised at the suggestion of an Islamic Community Center a few blocks away.

20140529_182655 20140529_182827 20140529_183750

05/28: Miss Rockaway Armada

During late August 2011 there was a small band of barges along the banks of the Schuylkill River in Philadelphia. They were the Miss Rockaway Armada, hosting a festival along the river. I missed the festival but enjoyed walking past the boats every chance I could. The group has done other flotillas, but their website for the Philly trip has since been taken down.

DSCF2015 DSCF2016 DSCF2017 DSCF2018 DSCF2019 DSCF3561

05/27: Ruins

A few articles this week took note of the struggles to get potential host cities to commit to the 2022 Winter Olympic Games. The investment in infrastructure and event facilities often fall into disuse and disrepair soon after the games end. I visited Montreal a few years back and enjoyed the site of Buckminster Fuller’s dome surrounded by a foot of snow, like an idyllic post-apocalyptic EPCOT Center. These scenes are sometimes (crudely but accurately) called ruins porn, reflected a fascination with remembrances of lives past or with what might have been. Like the pyramidal hotel in Pyongyang, I saw a similarly abandoned structure this time last year in Oran, Algeria. It was eerie and captivating, and if I felt less wary of local police I would have tried to find a way up to the building itself. It reminded me a bit of Torre David in Caracas, before any squatters made it their home.

SAM_0540 SAM_0544

05/26: Remembrance and Memorial

Today is Memorial Day in the United States, a Federal holiday dedicated to the memory of armed forces who lost their lives while serving the country. The holiday started out as Decoration Day, to celebrate soldiers killed during the Civil War (both Union and Confederate soldiers). Veterans’ Day, November 11th, began as Armistice day to celebrate the end of The Great War, the war to end all wars (also known as World War One). Going to college in Washington DC involved surprisingly little exploration of museums and monuments and memorials but my favorite is the District of Columbia War Memorial, between the Reflecting Pool and the new Martin Luther King Jr Memorial. It is dedicated to DC residents who fought in “The Great War” (a clue to the age of the dedication, 1931, before World War Two broke out) and has seen better days. I last visited it back in 2009, before its restoration in 2011. (Photos below from Wikipedia):


While I am glad that the memorial received much needed maintenance, its prior state (slightly ruinous) greatly appealed to me. It was a memorial to stumble upon, not to seek out. The mall still has no national memorial to World War 1, a topic explored a bit here and here.


05/25: Indigenous House

In 1930 the French government celebrated the French Algerian Centennial, marking 100 years of colonial occupation. As part of the event, architect Leon Claro designed the Indigenous House of the Centennial based on a standardized version of the courtyard house found in the Casbah of Algiers. This description is from Dr. Zeynep Celik from her book Urban Forms and Colonial Confrontations:

“Architectural and aesthetic appeal of the houses in the casbah had already been highlighted during the centennial celebrations of the French occupation. Following the lead of ethnographic research but focusing on the urban type, a model house was built at the intersection of the Boulevard de la Victoire and Rue de la Casbah, near the citadel, to “convey to tourists an idea of the habitation of Arabs in Algiers.” Léon Claro, the architect in charge, designed the Indigenous House of the Centennial (maison indigène ducentenaire ) as a two-story structure in the middle of the irregular lot and surrounded it with gardens behind high walls and a row of shops facing the Rue de la Casbah, to incorporate a trace of the souks (Figs. 47 and 48). He replicated the colonnaded courtyard, organized the main spaces around it, separated men’s and women’s quarters and gardens, and mimicked all the elements of the “traditional” house. Details and ornamentation, realized with the help of old materials and fragments gathered from the casbah, accentuated the aura of authenticity. The architect’s concern for authenticity was reflected in his drawings of details of the building considered especially significant. Belonging more to the architecture of world’s fairs than to Algiers, this building formed an uneasy relationship with the casbah. Its location at the edge of the casbah signified its ties to the old city, but the unusual circumstances of its creation alienated it from its sociocultural context. The Indigenous House of the Centennial was a sanitized summary of the architecture of the casbah, intended for outsiders and accessible without necessitating contact with indigenous neighborhoods.”

Two images accompany the prior description, one a photograph of the exterior of the house and one a series of drawings from the architect.

picture drawings

I had the opportunity to visit this house last May, as it is still part of the tours of the Casbah. Now it is a preserved and protected part of the architectural history of the area.

SAM_0721 SAM_0722 SAM_0723 SAM_0724